Matinicus Day 2: Tenants Harbor to Matinicus Island
The winds had died down as forecasted, so we loaded the boats and left Tenants Harbor at 0920 headed for Matinicus on a course of 120M headed for Little Green Island. A clear day allowed us to see the outline of Matinicus on the horizon as we passed Southern Island outside of Tenants Harbor, Metinic Island to our south, Bush Island Light to our north, and lobster buoys everywhere. We arrived at Little Green Island for an early lunch around 1115. The island has one boarded up shack in the middle of it surrounded by a variety of grasses, with the typical seagull and cormorant residents.
The option to explore Little Green was put off since we still had about half the distance remaining the Matinicus. After getting back on the water, we headed north of Little Green and south of Large Green, taking note of a large navigation buoy that had washed up on shore on the eastern side of Little Green. After passing Large Green Island and Green Island Ledge, we made for the middle of Matinicus Island, eventually deciding to head south, rounding the island between Matinicus and Ragged Island.
The southern tip of Matinicus is rugged, with little in the way of obvious settlement. As you round the tip, Ragged Island lies to your right with Criehaven Harbor clearly visible with Ten Pound Island in front. We took our second break on the beach between Cato Ledge and Curtis Point. The eastern side of the island has quite a few nice, sandy beaches all along the entire island.
With only a short distance remaining, and with a strong desire to be out of the boats for the day, we followed the coast up towards Matinicus Harbor, pulling into the our landing area for the next few days around 1440, passing a family having fun jumping off the ferry landing into the waters below. At first we were greeted with stares and sidelong glances, but that quickly transitioned to a warm welcome by the folks who happened to be on the shore. A quick call to our innkeeper using a local's landline (no cell phone coverage at all) and we were on our way to our lodging.
We stayed at Tuckanuck Lodge, run by 79 and a few months old Bill Hoadley, originally from Nantucket and described by one local as the resident Norman Bates. It turned out that he was a very gentle, energetic and interesting soul who not only runs the inn, but prepared breakfast and dinner for all of the guests over our entire stay there. With no tv, cell service, wifi or other distraction, the peacefulness of his lodge can't be beat. He will forget your name, he will argue with his dog, Sandy, kick you out of the kitchen when he is making dinner, and tell you the same stories multiple times, but roll with it and enjoy his eccentric company. He is one of a rapidly disappearing breed.